It is believed that Archduke Maximillian of Hamburg gave the first diamond engagement ring to Mary of Burgundy in 1477. Prior to that time,  rings signifying love and betrothal were set (if at all), with many different types of stones including rubies, pearls, and emeralds.   Diamonds mostly came from India at this time., and  cutting techniques were not yet establish.

During the 18th century, diamonds were discovered in Brazil, greatly increasing the supply of diamonds to the world. A century later, came the discovery of the vast supply in South Africa and within ten years after that, the firm De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd. was established . 

Betrothal rings during the 19th and early 20th centuries were usually  small gemstones clustered together, sometimes in combination with other gems such as sapphires, rubies, emeralds, as well as pearls. Diamonds were typically set in silver and backed in gold to prevent tarnishing. They were almost always mounted on a gold band .

It was not until 1886 that the solitaire diamond engagement ring (as we know it today), came into being, when a 6-prong open setting solitaire ring was introduced by Tiffany. Its design was to allow more light to enter into the diamond which in turn would create a greater brilliance.

During the 1920's Tiffany launched the diamond solitaire set in platinum, which remained popular until WWII, when it was forbidden to use platinum in anything but for the war effort.

After the war, the popularity of the diamond solitaire engagement ring continued to grow. It even made its way into Hollywood movies with films like "Breakfast at Tiffany's" , "Diamonds are Forever", and "Gentlemen Prefer Blonds" with the famous song, "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend".

 

Appraising Antique Diamond Engagement  Rings

Buying an antique diamond engagement ring is the 'ultimate' experience. Each ring is unique, and the workmanship and design is unparalleled.

It is important to realize however, that diamonds that were used before 1919,  were not cut according to the same standards as today. First,  formal calculations to cut the diamond did not exist. Instead, diamonds were cut to optimize its beauty and not its value. Second, diamonds were not appraised until after WWII. Therefore, it is also likely that components buyers look for today (size, color, clarity, and cut) were secondary to the overall design and workmanship of the ring itself.

For every engagement ring we receive, we send it out to an independent appraiser for evaluation and written report.

 For contemporary (ie new) rings, these are typically sent to GIA, where the diamond is removed from the mount and evaluated.

For the antique engagement rings, however, we will not send it to any appraiser who insists on removing the stone before review as there is a risk that it can be severely damaged in the process. Therefore, we typically send these rings to IGA who will appraise the ring in situ, i.e. in the mount, and may be less precise.

Please be advised however, that diamond evaluations for both new and antique rings is a subjective science. It is possible to send a ring to two separate appraisers and receive two different evaluations.

To sum, genuine antique diamond engagement rings should be purchased for its beauty, design, workmanship, and above all, because it is loved. It should be judged and enjoyed for its own merit.