Antique Jewelry Periods

Antique jewelry periods are typically based on the reigns of the English Kings and Queens or, as seen below, on major art movements and styles that make them so distinctive.

Georgian : 1714 -1837

Important events during this time include: French and American Revolutions, the mercury thermometer, smallpox vaccine, the steam engine, the first hot air balloon flight, the music of Mozart and Beethoven, and Patent #1 was registered in the US Patent Offices.

Jewelry styles of this period include: closed gems settings often  clustered together in motifs of starbursts, ribbons, flowers, and pear-shaped drops. Gemstones were often foiled enhance sparkle and color. Rings were often worn on every finger, multiple bracelets on the arms, long geometrical link chains of gold, cameos, intaglios and brooches were all worn by the fashionable lady. Faux diamonds called 'Paste' is developed and worn by royalty. A distinction between day and evening jewelry  was beginning to be made.

Victorian: 1837 - 1901

Important events during this time include: the Italian and German Unification, the American Civil War, the Industrial Revolution, the beginnings of the telephone, the telegraph, the light bulb, wireless cable, and the aspirin. The first subway system is built in London as is the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Charles Darwin publishes the 'Origins of Species', Claude Debussy is composing, and Sigmund Freud appears on the scene. Charles Dickens writes about society of the time and its often terrible impact on individuals.

Jewelry styles of this period include: a wide variety of styles evolved over the long reign of Queen Victoria, from  those which expressed sentiments of love and fidelity ( by using motifs of  serpents as found on Queen Victoria's betrothal ring, brooches and rings with a portrait of a loved one or a lock of hair, and motifs of a belt and buckle), to a more delicate and simple line found during the later years. Daywear saw jewelry made from ivory, tortoiseshell, coral, seed pearls. In the evening, gold set with enamel and gemstones were favored. In 1867, the discovery of the South African diamond mines led to a more frequent use of diamonds which were typically set in silver to enhance their brilliance and then backed in gold.

The Arts and Crafts Movement (1885-1901) began in England during the latter part of Queen Victoria's reign as a direct reaction to the terrible consequences to society of the Industrial Revolution. Factory working environment and crowded urban living  led to terrible social injustice and cruel labor practices. Within the arts, the designer was often separated from the fabrication of his pieces which could be shoddily made by a piece of machinery. Many designers 'rebelled' against this trend. They left the cities and set up small workshops in the countryside. Their goal was to design objects by hand that could be used and afforded by everyone. Their designs were inspired themes of nature. The result was pieces of simple beauty, with motifs of flowers, animals, birds, made in less expensive materials of silver, set with semiprecious stones rather than diamonds.

The Art Nouveau and Jugendstil Movements (1895 - 1914) began as an outgrowth of the Art and Crafts Movement. This was a time where many artists traveled, corresponded with each other, and participated in exhibitions held around the world. The ideals of the Arts and Crafts Movement easily spread into Europe and eventually to The United States. In France, the movement was called Art Nouveau or 'New Art', in Germany: Jugendstil, in Austria: Sezestionstil, and Italy: stile Liberty (after the London retailer who was a great supporter of the artists of this movement) where each country developed its own unique style.

Edwardian: 1901 - 1910

Important events during this time include: World War I, The Russian Revolution completely dominates this period of time. The Wright brothers make their first  'flight' at Kitty Hawk, the technique of fingerprinting is used in Paris to solve a crime, Einstein reveals his "Theory of Relativity", Mme Curie discovers radioactivity, Henry Ford develops the Model T Ford, and Leo Baekeland invents 'plastic'.

Jewelry styles of this period include: tiaras, fringe necklaces, drop earrings, all in an elegant and delicate design. Platinum was first introduced, rings grew very large in size and were worn stacked as were bracelets and bangles. Men also wore a large selection of jewelry including stickpins, cufflinks, pocket watches, and rings. Men's accessories also grew popular as a form of jewelry and included cigarette cases, visiting card cases, gemstone carvings, and walking sticks.

Art Deco: 1920 - 1939

Important events during this time include: Hitler comes to power, The Panama Canal opens, penicillin is discovered, and nylon is being used for ladies stockings. Movies and the radio is available to the public and "Gone With the Wind" hits the theatres. Television and the ball-point pen make their first appearance and the planet Pluto is discovered. It was the time of the "flapper" girls, and the music of George Gershwin and Cole Porter.

Jewelry styles of this period include: strong, bold, geometric designs often using colors of black and white, or a combination of greens, reds, and corals. Materials used in making jewelry was wide, ranging from the precious stones of diamonds, emeralds, and rubies to the less expensive plastics, chrome, and rhinestones. Although geometric designs dominated the scene, other motifs also prevailed including a revival of Egyptian motifs (after the discovery of the artifacts hidden in the pyramids), flowers and animals. As women became more 'liberated' they left their jewelry of previous decades for a more flamboyant collection of long beaded necklaces, cocktail rings, cigarette cases and holders, and wristwatches.

Retro: 1940 - 1949

Important events during this time include: WWII ends, Gandhi is assassinated, and The United Nations is born. Technology goes rampant with the development of nuclear fission, the computer, microwave oven, Xerox machines, and Polaroid cameras. LSD is discovered, blood transfusions are introduced, and Pan Am makes its first round the world flight.

Jewelry styles of this period include: very strong, bold, chunky and large pieces often forming scrolls and large bows. The use of platinum was forbidden during the war, and thus most jewelry was in either gold or silver. Jewelers began to experiment and use rose gold along with the traditional yellow gold, as well as the lesser known green and white gold. Often called, 'Cocktail Jewelry', Retro jewelry was best epitomized by the Hollywood actresses Bette Davis, Joan Crawford, Lana Turner.

Gemstones, Diamond Cuts and Gemstone Settings

Old European Cut:	A predecessor of the round brilliant cut diamond.
Round Brilliant Cut:	A round shaped diamond with 57-58 facets. The most popular shape in diamond engagement rings
Old Mine Cut:	A square shaped diamond with rounded corners
Rose Cut:	Characterized by a flat base and many triangular facets. Not used today.
English Round Cut:	Resembles the modern day round brilliant used in England during the mid 19th century.
Asscher Cut:	Early emerald cut with wide corners.
Cluster Setting:	A setting where several small gemstones are set close together creating an effect of one stone.
Prong or Claw Setting:	A  set of 4-6 metal 'fingers' that hold a gemstone in its mount.
Closed Setting:	A setting where the back of a gemstone is completely covered, not letting light to shine through.
Bezel Setting:	A setting where the gemstone is completely encircled.
Rubellite:	A pink to red color tourmaline
Pave Setting:	A setting where many small gemstones are set close together (like paving stones) so as to cover the entire mount.
Half Moon Cut:	Also called a half moon brilliant cut which, as its name implies is like a brilliant cut stone divided in half.

Jewelry Styles and Techniques

Etruscan Revival:	19th century style characterized by ancient Etruscan motifs that were uncovered by archeological digs of that time.
Pique:	Hand carved tortoise shell inlaid with silver and/or gold, mother of pearl
Paste:	First created in the 18th century from a special type of glass or crystal which could be hand cut and mimic the diamond.
Cut Steel:	Small pieces of faceted steel producing the same flickering effect as a diamond by candlelight was a popular diamond jewelry alternative beginning in the 18th century
Jet Jewelry:	A fashionable style after the death of Prince Albert in 1861 and Queen Victoria wanted to wear jewelry that expressed her being in mourning. Jet is a type of fossilized wood found in abundance in Yorkshire which could be intricately carved
Hair Work:	First used as a decorative accent during the Georgian period, when a lock of hair from a beloved deceased was arranged in a design as a brooch or ring. During the Victorian period, this type of jewelry became fashionable.
Scottish Agate:	A popular form of jewelry during Queen Victoria's reign who loved Scotland. Jewelry pieces in silver and gold were made and then set with hand carved agates mined in Scotland.
Pietra Dura	A technique involving the inlaying precious and semi-precious stones and marbles and fitted together to create a picture usually into a piece of black marble.
Micromosaics:	A technique involving minute pieces of glass pieced together to form a picture. Similar to the technique of mosaic work found in the Greek and Roman architecture. This form of jewelry was popular during Queen Victoria's reign.
Egyptian Revival:	Jewelry that was inspired by ancient Egyptian styles that were uncovered during the archeological excavation of the nineteenth century, and then later during the early 20th century.
Guilloche Enameling:	Engine - turned engraving creating patterns in the metal (usually silver or gold) which is then covered with a transparent enamel so that the pattern is visible.
Repousse:	A decoration which is created on a metal by hammering it out from the reverse side so the decoration stands out
Cannetile:	A type of decoration whereby metal wires (gold or silver), are coiled into scrolls, rosettes, and filigree pattern.
Filigree:	A decoration made from metal wire (gold or silver) which forms a delicate openwork frame usually in brooches, necklaces, and even rings.
Millegrain:	A decoration which is achieved by a series of minute beading
Cabochon:	A stone or gem which has been cut with a smooth, polished surface. There are no facets.
Hair Jewelry:	Jewelry which is made of or decorated with human hair. First worn in the 17th century in memory of a deceased loved one. During the 19th century, it became fashionable to wear as a token of ones love. It is reported that George Washington would grow his hair in order to cut pieces and incorporate them into jewelry which he would give to family and friends.
Cameo Glass:	A technique whereby two or more layers of colored glass are blown and fused together. A design was applied to the top layer using an acid resistant varnish. The piece would then be dipped into acid which would 'eat' at those parts of the  glass unprotected by the varnish revealing an inner layer. The result was that the design would be in relief to the rest of the glass. In some cases, the piece would be further engraved or cut to create a more textured effect with depth and shade.
Muff Chain:	A very long chain that would be worn around the neck and placed through a ladies muff so that it could be held in place. This was very popular during the 18th century.
Marcasite	A type of iron pyrite mineral, it was used in jewelry since Ancient Greek times. Usually, it was faceted to enhance its sparkle.
Plique a Jour	Plique a Jour is a French term coined to describe a technique of enameling whereby a design is outlined in a metal (typically gold), and its interior is decorated with translucent enamels which have no backing behind it. This allows the light to go completely through the enamels, creating a stained glass effect. It is believed that this technique was first used during the 15th century and then later revitalized in France around 1900.
Aesthetic Style	A style of jewelry that emerged during the latter part of the 19th century. It began with the opening of trade with Japan which exposed Japanese designs to the rest of the world. In particular, the use of birds and flowers was widely popular.